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    青龍橋站一日游

    時間:2019-04-04 11:35:25 來源:人民鐵道網-人民鐵道報 作者:李海濱

    五桂頭山洞北口。
     
    居庸關山洞北口。
     
      20世紀二三十年代,隨著中國城市化進程的發展以及交通條件的改善,具有休閑性質的觀光旅游蔚然成風。其中,瞬息千里、行車穩捷的火車憑借明顯的優勢而成為眾多游客出行的首選方式。
     
      當時,各鐵路線通過發售來回游覽票、降低票價、開行專列、刊印指南、改進服務等方式,多措并舉,不遺余力地倡導和扶植旅游業發展。起自北平、終至包頭的平綏鐵路即是如此。該鐵路沿線不乏奇山秀水、名勝古跡,尤其是聞名遐邇的青龍橋站之字形線路及沿線的長城風景,吸引了眾多游客慕名而往。于是,利用(春季)假期到青龍橋站一日游逐漸成為游客青睞的熱點路線。
     
      游客欲赴青龍橋站及沿線賞景探勝,大多于晨8時由北平西直門站始發。有些游客也可從前門東站上車,經環城鐵路至西直門站再赴青龍橋。若是團體游客,平綏鐵路局還會依照人數而配備專車,而且實行票價折扣優惠。
     
      車出西直門站后,轉瞬即達清華園站。臨窗外望,清華園(今清華大學所在)及燕京大學的水塔立于山明水媚之間,遙黛可掬的頤和園佛香閣亦收于眼底。再前行5公里許便至清河站,而后至沙河站。沙河為燕北重鎮,其地有明景帝陵寢,妙峰山則隱約云外,靜息以觀,橫跨沙河的兩大鐵橋也可望見。距離沙河站20余里的湯山溫泉是平綏鐵路沿線的名勝之一。在沙河至湯山的馬路修筑后,平綏鐵路局在湯山設立新式洋飯店,每房附設浴池,引來泉水,還備有人力車往來載客。如果游客打算當日來回,可由西直門站乘8時20分的八次列車至沙河站,換乘人力車后約11時30分可到湯山,14時30分左右乘人力車返回沙河站,再改乘16時38分的7次列車即可回至西直門站。
     
      車又行后抵達昌平站,群峰如拱的天壽山、黃瓦朱墻的明十三陵觸目可見。游覽明十三陵的游客可在此站下車,但很多游客則選擇在下一站——南口站下車。因為由南口站至明十三陵相較于昌平站更為便利。游客可乘早行車至南口站后進餐,然后雇坐驢、轎至明十三陵。游畢,游客可乘當日晚車返回,否則只得逗留一宿。平綏鐵路局在此設有旅館,游客若想攜帶食品到明十三陵野餐,旅館亦可代辦。
     
      車抵南口,再向北行,經東園、居庸關、三堡而至青龍橋站。此段地勢聳峻,線路迂折,坡度險急,列車至此,須改換山道機車,推行而上。在機車徐徐推行之中,山勢愈益逼近車窗,兩旁青崖摩天,層巒疊嶂,怪石嶙峋,崢嶸萬狀,長城迤邐山巔,時有所見,碑亭古跡也令人目不暇接。時至暮春,野花淺枝開在車道之側,亦使游客別生雅趣。此時的列車蜿蜒如蛇般向上爬行,頗顯奇趣。其間,列車鉆入居庸關、五桂頭及石佛寺等隧洞,一時暗如黑夜,聲息寂然,數分鐘后又豁然開朗。列車終于停靠青龍橋站。
     
      車站清幽,處于山峽之間,峭壁矗立,長城奇觀,均在眼前。詹天佑先生設計的之字形線路亦在此處。站臺旁邊巍然矗立著詹天佑銅像,仿佛在沉靜地眺望、欣賞自己勞動的結晶。與銅像并列的是徐世昌所立之碑,以紀念和頌揚詹天佑先生締造的不朽功績。此外,站旁有驢、轎待賃,游客可以下車就轎,循山道以登長城。即便是經停此站的游客,亦在調倒車頭之際,下站流連、瞻仰。正因詹天佑先生攻堅克難,矢志不渝,歷時數載完成如此艱巨的工程,才使旅客得以游于天險之地。所以有到過青龍橋站的人說:“游青龍橋,登長城者,永遠會追慕兩個人:一是秦始皇,一是詹天佑。”但八達嶺長城并非秦始皇時代的遺存,而長城邊的鐵路卻是詹天佑先生的心血。
     
      游覽長城完畢后,游客可回站進餐,然后乘坐下午的火車,循之字形線路倒轉而下,返回西直門站。
     
      本文圖片由李海濱提供
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