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    春到皖南游 水墨徽州賞花景

    時間:2019-04-15 14:16:34 來源:人民鐵道網-人民鐵道報 作者:過潔昀

    春到黟縣,桃花、油菜花綻放山間。


    一派春意的桃花潭。


    桃花潭的各色龍舟。

      春風輕拂皖南,喚醒了冬季里沉睡的徽州,萬物復蘇,風光正好。如果說徽州的秋是濃墨重彩,那么徽州的春則屬清麗淡雅,在綠水青山、薄霧花海的映襯下,青磚黛瓦中炊煙裊裊,田野間耕牛漫步,淳樸靜謐卻生機盎然。“上有天堂,下有蘇杭”,杭黃高鐵的開通縮短了杭州與黃山的距離,也為來蘇杭賞景的游人帶來更多便利。春暖花開,來徽州共赴一場春的約會吧。
     
      追夢古鎮,品徽州春味
     
      從杭州東站乘高鐵,最快一個半小時就能到達黃山北站。
     
      “五岳歸來不看山,黃山歸來不看岳”,奇險秀美的黃山一直都是游客出行的熱門景點。
     
      距離黃山北站約1小時車程的黟縣因西遞村、宏村被世人熟知。西遞自古被稱為“桃花源里人家”,當地種植桃花歷史悠久,但黟縣最知名的桃花林卻是距西遞不遠處的五里桃花,該桃花林因地處五里村而得名。迎著和煦的春風,桃花林茂密,桃樹枝干形態優美,桃花豐腴嬌艷。
     
      《詩經》有云:“桃之夭夭,灼灼其華。”桃花仿佛總與戀人間的美好愛情相聯系。桃花樹下常有成雙的背影,羨煞旁人。春天,五里村的桃花間鑲嵌著金色的油菜花,粉、金色暈染花田,遠處青山隱隱,近處古建筑成群。待桃花落盡,果上枝頭,香甜多汁的水蜜桃讓人回味無窮。
     
      黟縣的民宅也頗有一番趣味,關麓的八大家古民居令人嘖嘖稱奇。這里的8幢古宅設計精美,是清朝中期汪姓后裔的8個兄弟所建。八大家古民居外觀上風格不一、各自成宅,正廳、偏廳、院落等一應俱全。院與院相互聯通,將以血緣為紐帶的8個家庭聯為一體。古宅布局復雜,院落眾多,據說即便是在古宅中長大,也少有人能弄清它的全部構造。
     
      黃山風景區南麓的呈坎鎮是國家5A級旅游景區古徽州文化旅游區的組成部分。據傳,當地的古村落建筑是由原居江西的羅氏兄弟遷居徽州時精心選址建成的。呈坎古村落布局講究陰陽調和,“游呈坎,一生無坎”的說法也因此流傳。
     
      徽州文化歷史悠長。皖南地區的柯村、南屏、盧村、協里、木梨硔等等古村落大多保留著原始風貌。游客若是暫得閑暇,不妨乘杭黃高鐵來這里一游。
     
      來到皖南,舌尖上的旅行自然不能錯過。想要吃到正宗的徽菜,還是要到黃山周邊,徽州的臭鱖魚、毛豆腐、一品鍋等在這里四季都可以品嘗到。現在正值春天,皖南地區獨有的春季風味更是不容錯過。山間的竹筍已經開始冒尖,新鮮的竹筍從出土到入胃,用不了半天時間。除竹筍外,各種野菜,如馬齒莧、薺菜、蒲公英、蕨菜、水芹菜、椿菜、馬蘭頭等都是農家餐桌上的美食。香椿葉被雞蛋包裹過油烹飪,獨有的香味讓人垂涎三尺;艾草粑粑更是春日里皖南家家戶戶必備的美味……
     
      踏春山水,賞丹青美景
     
      沿杭黃高鐵繼續游玩,從黃山北站到歙縣北站不到10分鐘。從歙縣北站乘汽車,約1小時即可到達仙境般的石潭村。每年三四月份,漫山遍野的油菜花綻放,石潭村便會吸引全國各地的攝影愛好者來此處“攝春”。
     
      石潭當地群山環繞,春暖花開的季節里,除了大片的油菜花,青山間的桃花、梨花、杜鵑花也不甘示弱,競相盛開。百花在藍天白云下交相輝映,讓人目不暇接。馥郁的香氣彌漫在山間,游人閉上眼睛也能聞到春天的氣息。數十座村落就藏匿在靜謐幽深的山間,民居依山而建,壘石而起,粉墻黛瓦,翹檐飛角,羊腸小道蜿蜒在村與村之間。
     
      乘車至石潭村口,跨過一座廊橋,沿山間小道拾級而上,游人們便可以自在地穿梭于村落之間。
     
      下汰村的觀景平臺為游人俯視山間美景提供了絕佳的地理位置。江南煙雨氤氳的時節里,空氣中的水汽匯集,漸成云海。站在山巒間,靜靜欣賞云海翻涌,山林在霧氣中忽隱忽現的景象,青、黃、粉、白各色均有,濃淡相宜,宛如一卷丹青。
     
      新安江山水畫廊風景區是徽州山水融合的體現。這里多山,卻不少水,天地之間,山水人煙,頗具中國山水畫的精髓。泛舟新安江上,隨江水流動,游走在錦峰秀嶺之間,遠觀層層疊疊的山巒倒映水面,風起吹動湖面,掀起層層漣漪。幾只漁船隨意停靠岸邊,兩岸油菜花也隨風搖曳,不時有幾間舊屋影影綽綽,似隨意點綴山間,渾然天成。山水在這里仿佛有了靈氣,游人置身其中,似融入天地之間。
     
      另類的徽派建筑陽產土樓位于皖南山區的深山腹地。兩三層黃墻青瓦的土樓壘石而起,鱗次櫛比。大山里的村民與世無爭,勤勞樸實,日出而作,日落而息,好一派古樸風光。
     
      陽春三月,“只賣花,不賣魚”的賣花漁村,家家戶戶依然有梅花吐露芳華,院落里的盆景春意盎然,好不熱鬧。紅梅、白梅、綠梅將村莊包裹在花團錦簇的一派美景中,恍如世外桃源。
     
      尋詩問古,品歷史人文
     
      “桃花潭水深千尺,不及汪倫送我情。”詩仙李白的名句讓桃花潭聞名于世。從歙縣北站轉乘合福高鐵約半小時便來到極具人文氣息的涇縣,游人可以盡情追尋李白詩中的深厚情誼。
     
      傳說,落魄時的李白應邀拜訪友人汪倫,當時此處十里桃花,猶如人間仙境。兩人對酒當歌,談笑人生,踏舟欲行時,大詩人李白情不自禁地吟誦出這句感人肺腑的千古名句。可以說,李、汪二人共同成就了今日桃花潭的美名。
     
      桃花潭四周自然、人文景觀豐富:屹立千年的壘玉墩,深藏奧妙的書板石、李白醉臥的彩虹崗、踏歌聲聲的古岸閣、青磚黑瓦的古民居……
     
      穿過古民居,站在潭水邊,潭水靜如古鏡。向西岸望去,桃花盛開,亭臺山石倒映水面。若是湊巧,還有可能會看到一兩只漁船,船上漁夫撒網,頗有一種穿越時空之感。
     
      被譽為“中華第一祠”的翟氏宗祠就坐落于桃花潭東岸,雖年代久遠,但光輝未減。祠堂里擺放著各色龍舟,向人們訴說著這里賽龍舟的悠久傳統。
     
      距桃花潭10余公里處有一座古鎮,因少被游人知曉,被完整地保留下來。潺潺小溪貫穿古鎮,春來小魚、小蝦也跟著在溪水中活潑起來。溪水之上架起一座座青石小橋,長短不一,錯落有致。藤蔓冒出新芽,順著橋面恣意生長,延伸到水中。民居臨溪而建,院子的圍墻阻擋不了爭春的花朵。
     
      古鎮安寧、平靜。溪邊的阿姨一邊淘米洗衣,一邊閑話家常。透過院子的門縫,或許能看見村民在院子里熟練地編竹籃,滿滿都是生活的氣息。
     
      小鎮上常住有外鄉人,多是來采風的學生,尋一處風景,支一個畫架,或是速寫或是水彩,美景躍然紙上。濃厚的藝術氛圍,讓人頓生提筆創作的欲望。
     
      漸來的春風,細雨潤開黛色磚墻,陽光灑入天井。青山綠水,桃紅柳綠,蜂蝶飛舞。綿延起伏的馬頭墻、歷史悠久的徽式祠堂,爛漫和質樸、華彩與淡雅,描繪出令人魂牽夢繞的徽州景象。
     
      去年底,杭黃高鐵正式開通,使游人來徽州游玩,感受皖南春意愈發便捷。因此,何不乘興而游,坐著高鐵領略皖南之美。
     
      本文照片均由滕文榮攝
     
      主要景點
     
      ●呈坎鎮:
     
      位于黃山風景區南麓,北距黃山40公里,南距徽州區政府駐地——巖寺鎮15公里。呈坎地處青山翠竹之中,集自然景觀、人文景觀于一體,原為徽州首府歙縣轄地。唐末,江西南昌府羅天真、羅天秩堂兄弟倆舉家遷入歙縣,記載中提到這里“擇地得西北四十里,地名龍溪,改名呈坎”。
     
      ●關麓村:
     
      屬安徽省黃山市黟縣碧陽鎮管轄,地處武亭山麓、西武嶺腳,有“西武雄關”之稱,因居雄關之東麓而得名。關麓村環境優美,村前有一條小溪,溪水源于武亭山麓,故名武水。村口有一人工水塘,面積達3000平方米,狀如彎月,稱為月塘。
     
      ●石潭村:
     
      位于中國歷史文化名城歙縣南部,坐落于美麗的昌源河之濱,屬霞坑鎮管轄,是黃山百佳攝影基地之一。
     
      石潭村靜謐幽深的街巷格式(十八街),詩情畫意的村落景觀,淡雅明快的建筑色調,小橋流水人家模樣的江南風景,精湛華麗的裝飾風格,無不給人留下深刻印象。
     
      ●新安江山水畫廊風景區:
     
      位于黃山市歙縣深渡鎮,全長約百里,景區將中國獨特的徽文化與自然風光、古村落相結合。兩岸生態環境呈現“高山林、中山茶、低山果、水中魚”的立體生態格局,徽派古民居點綴在青山綠水間。素有“東方多瑙河之稱”的新安江穿過深渡鎮。這里一年四季景色各異,似一幅流動的山水畫卷,故被稱為新安江百里畫廊。
     
      ●桃花潭風景區:
     
      位于安徽省宣城市涇縣桃花潭鎮境內(青弋江上游),距縣城34公里。景區內自然景觀和人文景觀融為一體,既有清新秀麗、蒼巒疊翠的皖南風光,可觀山川之靈氣,又有保存完整、風格獨特的古代建筑,可發思古之幽情。桃花潭鎮內有保存完整的皖南古民居群,有明清建筑700余處。

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