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    沿著貴廣高鐵 飽覽多彩貴州

    時間:2019-05-20 10:33:41 來源:人民鐵道網-人民鐵道報 作者:傅洛煒 許 毅

    貴州黔南州荔波小七孔。


    小七孔臥龍潭瀑布。


    全國最大的侗寨——肇興侗寨。

      貴廣高鐵是中國穿越喀斯特地貌最長的鐵路,自貴陽北站起途經貴州黔南布依族苗族自治州、黔東南苗族侗族自治州和廣西壯族自治區等地,最終到達廣州南站。沿途22個站點,貴州境內就占了8個。伴隨2014年貴廣高鐵開通運營,貴廣高鐵沿線深藏的景點紛紛展露,全國各地游客坐著高鐵列車紛至沓來,沿著貴廣高鐵飽覽多彩貴州別具民族風情的旖旎風光。
     
      三都:水族怎雷古寨欣賞馬尾繡
     
      乘坐高鐵從貴陽北站出發,經過兩站耗時大約58分鐘就到達了三都站。三都縣是中國唯一的水族自治縣,位于黔南布依族苗族自治州的東南部。水族有自己的語言和文字,而且這里的水族村寨,也一直完好地保留著自己原有的特色。
     
      三都旁邊的都江鎮有一個水族的怎雷古建筑群,坐落在半山坡上,村寨后是綠樹覆蓋的山梁,村寨前是滿目金黃稻谷的梯田。梯田層層而下,深深的山谷里,是蜿蜒南去的都柳江。村寨依山勢而建,清一色的木樓蓋著小青瓦,與山、林、梯田互為襯托,交相輝映,美不勝收。
     
      在怎雷村的入口處不遠,就是一個糧倉,糧倉內的農耕工具叫摏碓,它主要用來摏掉稻谷的皮和搗碎作物糧食。
     
      一旦到了卯節,整個寨子就沸騰起來,三都、荔波成千上萬的水族同胞不斷地向這個寨子涌來,會有很多的水族男女在這里一唱定情。
     
      三都的馬尾繡堪稱民間傳統工藝的一絕。馬尾繡是水族婦女世代傳承的一種特殊刺繡技藝,它以馬尾作為主要原材料,被稱為刺繡的活化石。在馬尾繡制品上,每一個圖案都有自己的意義。
     
      荔波:地球腰帶上的“綠寶石”
     
      從三都到荔波,大巴車車程約1小時30分,小七孔景區是國家級風景名勝區,于2007年成為世界自然遺產地,風景極美。這里有著濃郁的民族風情和深厚的歷史文化。小七孔景區被群峰包圍,又因一座青石材質的七孔拱橋而得名。景區內樹木茂密,山清水秀,還有美麗的湖泊和瀑布分布其中。
     
      沿著高鐵前往第三站是從江縣。從三都站到從江站大約40分鐘車程,一出站,馬上就感受到了不一樣的民族氣息。
     
      從江縣位于貴州省的東南部,這里融合了侗族、苗族、瑤族等多個少數民族。在貴廣高鐵開通之前,貴陽至從江是沒有鐵路連通的,游客如果想到從江旅游,要先抵達貴陽,再駕車6小時才能到達從江。貴廣高鐵的開通大大縮短了貴陽至從江的車程,節省了游客在路途上花費的時間。
     
      從從江縣城驅車6公里,就抵達岜沙苗寨。寨內500余戶人家,木樓古樸簡單;四周密林環繞,村民全系苗族,衣著方式和發式奇特,被稱為秦時發式漢時裝。鐮刀剃頭也是這里最具風情的表演。
     
      清晨,寨中山霧繚繞,鳥語花香;傍晚,縷縷炊煙,夕陽余暉。岜沙人以種稻為主、狩獵為伴,自給自足,染衣織布。千百年來由于位置偏僻,很少有外人進來,村寨的木樓皆保持古樸、簡單的風格,人們至今保留著佩帶火槍、鐮刀剃頭、祭拜古樹等古老的生活習俗。
     
      “侗鄉第一寨”——肇興侗寨
     
      從從江站出發不到10公里,就可以到達極具民族特色的肇興侗寨,它是全國最大的侗族村寨之一。作為2018年中央電視臺春晚的分會場,肇興侗寨一直熱度不減,處處可見游人穿梭其中。
     
      村寨四面環山,小河從寨中蜿蜒流過,村寨建筑皆為青瓦吊腳木樓,鱗次櫛比,疏密有致。肇興侗寨以鼓樓群最為著名,其鼓樓在全國侗寨中絕無僅有,被載入吉尼斯世界紀錄,被譽為鼓樓文化藝術之鄉。寨中共建有鼓樓、花橋、戲臺各五座,五座鼓樓的外觀、高低、大小、風格各異,蔚為壯觀。鼓樓分別以“仁義禮智信”命名,村民們就圍繞著這五座鼓樓形成不同的“團”,類似于村民小組。
     
      鼓樓從外觀觀賞像一座寶塔,飛閣重檐,氣勢雄偉。全樓為木結構建筑,用四根大杉木為主柱直達頂層,使用中央懸空一根為雷公柱、四根金柱為主承柱、四周有十二根檐柱的結構方法,象征一年、四季、十二個月,寓意“天長地久”。
     
      肇興侗寨與自然和諧相處,這里的人們也被自然賦予了無窮的生活智慧和無限的藝術靈感。“飯養身,歌養心。”侗家人世代都愛歌、學歌、唱歌,而以多聲部、無指揮、無伴奏為主要特點的侗族大歌,模擬鳥叫蟲鳴、高山流水等自然之音,歌唱自然、勞動、愛情及友誼。備上香甜的攔門酒,身著盛裝的侗家姑娘唱起清泉般閃亮的侗族大歌,歡迎遠道而來的客人。
     
      加榜梯田:月亮山腹地的天上人間
     
      位于從江縣西部的加榜梯田,是苗族寨子世代耕耘的杰作。2012年,《舌尖上的中國》第七集《我們的田野》里,就提到了加榜梯田。
     
      梯田從加車河谷繞著山梁向上攀升,像一座“天梯”連接著天地,梯帶高低落差近千米。由于海拔高低不同,同處于一座山坡的梯田,黃色由淺變深,形態各異。
     
      每年的四五月是梯田注水的季節,注水后的梯田會閃現出銀白色的光芒,更凸顯出梯田婀娜曲折的輪廓。那些散落在梯田中間獨具苗鄉特色的吊腳樓,好似五線譜中的一個個音符。清晨,層層云霧從加榜河上緩緩升起,田野一片朦朧,不多時,霧退云散,陽光揮灑大地。夜幕之下的溫暖燈火,夜空之中的閃爍星辰,比畫更美更脫俗,每年都會吸引大量的攝影愛好者聚集。
     
      貴州的動人風光往往玲瓏地鑲嵌在大山之間,貴廣高鐵是串起這些美景的銀線。聽,貴州有悅耳的蘆笙、激情的木鼓、動聽的歌兒;看,少數民族姑娘身著華麗的盛裝,揚著喜氣的笑臉,步步如畫;聞,米酒的香醇、酸湯和臘肉的馨香一個勁兒地在你鼻端縈繞不散;品,融入了苗、侗等多個民族文化的滋味。
     
      乘坐高鐵列車,沿著貴廣高鐵,飽覽精彩紛呈的貴州美景吧。多彩貴州歡迎您!
     
      本文圖片均由陳方燕提供
     
      景點介紹
     
      ●青巖古鎮
     
      青巖古鎮坐落在貴陽市南郊,是貴陽第一個國家5A級景區,至今已有600多年的歷史。由于扼守貴陽的南大門,徐霞客曾經在他的游記中稱青巖為貴陽的“南鄙要塞”。北街是青巖古鎮的主街道,也是最繁華的街道。與北街垂直的一條街叫狀元街,清末狀元趙以炯的故居便在此處。“壽”字形的房屋格局,蒼勁有力的書法作品,讓人回味狀元曾在院里熟誦經書的情景。古鎮最受歡迎的小吃要數狀元蹄、糕粑稀飯和豆腐圓子,糕粑稀飯味道芳香清淡、甜而不膩,吸引眾多游客慕名前來。
     
      ●大七孔
     
      大七孔是以原始森林、峽谷、伏流、地下湖為主體的景區,距小七孔鴛鴦湖景區約5公里。景觀峻險神奇、氣勢雄峻磅礴,山高谷深,水流湍急,洞中有瀑,瀑下有湖,湖上有天窗,陽光投下形如日月星斗。還有一座高80余米的天生橋巍然而立被專家們譽為“大自然神力所塑造的東方凱旋門”,觀之令人肅然起敬,為大自然神力所折服。大七孔以景區的一座大七孔古橋而得名,充滿了神秘、奇特的色彩。從大七孔橋溯流而上,迎面而來的是一道長長的天神峽谷,峽谷內危崖層疊,峭壁聳立,嵐氣繚繞。
     
      ●甲秀樓
     
      甲秀樓是坐落于貴陽市內南明河畔的歷史名樓,夜景十分壯觀。甲秀樓矗立在南明河中的萬鰲礬石上,明萬歷年間建,取“科甲挺秀”之意。現存建筑是1909年重建的。樓上下三層,白石為欄,層層收進,由橋面至樓頂高約20米。南明河從樓前流過,匯為涵碧潭。樓側由石拱浮玉橋連接兩岸,橋上原有小亭一座叫涵碧亭。甲秀樓朱梁碧瓦,四周水光山色,名實相符,堪稱甲秀。甲秀樓歷經400年的風吹雨打仍舊矗立不倒,是貴陽歷史的見證,是貴陽文化發展史上的標志。

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