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    風馳電掣入晉北 凝望邊塞好風光

    時間:2019-06-02 08:21:42 來源:人民鐵道網-人民鐵道報 作者:樊康屹 呂宇飛
    ■本報記者 樊康屹 本報通訊員 呂宇飛 

    蘆芽山天池 

    應縣木塔 

    廣武長城 

    懷仁崇國寺 

    楊忠武祠 
     
      旅行是風光山水的觀賞,旅行也是文化綿延的凝望。
     
      今年五一小長假,動車組列車首次沿著韓原線駛入晉北地區,代表現代文明的動車組列車馳出雁門關、駛過金沙灘,將浸潤數千年的邊塞文化、古戰場文化、游牧文化、民族交融文化、佛教文化串珠成鏈。
     
      到“三班”故里看古寺
     
      從山西省會太原乘坐動車,50多分鐘便可到達原平市,這里是韓原線的南起點。原平市地處晉北中部,是我國文學史上著名才女班婕妤及其子孫班彪、班固、班昭的故里。
     
      原平東襟五臺圣境,西接蘆芽山景,南倚忻口舊跡,北屏雁門古關,人稱“三關襟帶,全晉蕃籬”。所謂“三關”,指雁門關、偏頭關、寧武關,合稱長城“外三關”。其中,天下九塞,雁門為首。從原平西站向北約60公里,就是聞名古今的雁門關。戰旗獵獵的古道雄關曾經見證了“漢高祖北征”“昭君出塞”“宋欽徽二帝北擄”“楊家將鎮守三關”等重大歷史事件。
     
      雁門關向東至雁門山下有個鹿蹄澗村,這里坐落著建于700多年前的楊忠武祠,楊忠武祠既是北宋年間楊家將滿門忠烈扼守雁門關赫赫戰功的記錄,也寄托著中華民族對“一堂忠義”的深深敬意。
     
      歷史上多年的烽火連天,讓這里的人們更渴望內心的祥和安寧。原平向西100公里,是擁有140余萬畝草原森林的汾河之源蘆芽山,向東100多公里,則是四大佛教名山之首的清涼勝境五臺山。此外,原平境內還有宋代惠濟寺、元代佛堂寺、唐代土圣寺等一批佛門勝跡,寺院眾多的五峰山更被人稱作“小五臺山”,康熙皇帝御筆親書“五峰化宇”。
     
      近年來,原平市區沿溝鄉有一座古剎聲名鵲起,它就是樓煩寺。從原平西站乘坐汽車,30多公里便可到達樓煩寺。樓煩寺是佛學家、哲學家和文學家慧遠大師的落發之所。慧遠大師出生于1600多年前(東晉)的樓煩(即原平),創立了廬山東林寺。
     
      一邊是刀光劍影,一邊是佛光普照、梵音繞梁。來到這里,人們仿佛穿越到金戈鐵馬的戰場,又仿佛置身于與世無爭的佛門,不禁引發人們的幽古之思。
     
      到龍鳳之鄉賞奇塔
     
      從原平西站乘車,出雁門關后就能到達朔州市應縣。應縣歷史上名人輩出,特別是五代十國時期,出過晉王李克用、后唐莊宗李存勖等6位帝王,出過遼史上著名的女政治家、軍事家蕭太后和宋代仁宗皇帝的郭皇后等四位皇后,有龍鳳之鄉的美譽。
     
      應縣的佛教文化、古建文化、遼金文化源遠流長,傳承千年。1000年前的遼代應縣木塔與意大利比薩斜塔、巴黎埃菲爾鐵塔并稱“世界三大奇塔”,近67米高的塔身無一枚鐵釘,是世界上現存最古老最高大的純木質結構建筑。它建筑風格偉岸,局部藝術溫柔,有“遠看擎天柱,近似百尺蓮”的美譽,明成祖朱棣親題“峻極神功”。木塔內供奉著兩顆佛牙舍利,經考證確認為是釋迦牟尼靈牙遺骨。塔內還有一批珍貴的遼代文物,尤其是遼刻彩印,填補了中國印刷史的空白。
     
      “檐從斗角鉤心起,鈴對金戈鐵馬鳴。”這是描寫應縣木塔的詞句,一處佛家凈地卻被洇染得如此烽煙滾滾、鼓角錚錚。遼宋戰爭期間,因為木塔能登高遠眺,洞察敵情,成為兩軍反復爭奪的指揮陣地。1517年,明正德皇帝率軍與進犯的北元部落在此血戰六天獲勝,特書“天下奇觀”四字贊美木塔。1926年,軍閥混戰時,木塔共中彈200余發。1948年解放應縣時,守城的國民黨軍隊以木塔為制高點設立了機槍陣地,木塔被12發炮彈擊中。歷經千年風雨和戰火,應縣木塔卻依然屹立云中,難怪中國現代建筑學家梁思成先生說:“這塔真是獨一無二的偉大作品,不見此塔,不知木構的可能性到了什么程度。”
     
      此外,應縣城內的凈土寺為金代建筑之精品,周邊有廣武長城等古長城遺存100公里。全縣有森林資源10萬多畝,有地質奇觀石柱山、高山平原跑馬梁、“邊耀夕照”龍首山等自然景觀70多處,被評為中國綠色名縣、全國生態文明先進縣和國家園林縣城,中國最佳生態宜居旅游名縣。
     
      在“懷德里仁”發幽思
     
      從應縣站乘動車北行10多分鐘,便到了朔州所轄懷仁市。1100多年前,被唐王朝封為晉王的沙陀部首領李克用與遼太祖耶律阿保機會盟于云州東城,易袍馬約為兄弟,為紀念盛事,取《論語》“懷德里仁”之意,命名當地為懷仁。
     
      先有清涼寺,后有五臺山。五臺山位于懷仁市何家堡鄉的清涼山旅游景區,山勢陡峭,峰巒疊嶂。山分為南北兩峰,二峰之間山凹盆地上有清涼山華嚴寺遺址。該寺磚塔為遼代建造,全部用磚砌筑,為七層八角密檐式,通高10.8米。
     
      楊家將血戰金沙灘的故事也發生在這里。金沙灘生態旅游區位于懷仁市城西南10公里處,背依洪濤山,是一處集生態建設、邊塞疆場、民俗宗教、休閑度假于一體的綜合性旅游場所,也是全國唯一一處為弘揚楊家將歷史文化而開發的AAAA級人文類旅游景區。景區占地一萬余畝,有形象逼真的楊家將石雕群,有全國首家再現的傳奇陣法——天門陣,有1000多平方米的楊家將故事壁畫,有仁和殿、點將臺、八卦迷魂陣等建筑景觀。
     
      金沙灘生態旅游區北側,有元世祖忽必烈始建的崇國寺,建筑風格別具特色,殿房樓閣斗檐俊翹,雕梁畫棟古樸嚴謹,既延伸了懷仁的文脈,又體現了宗教的魅力。在此游覽,可盡享回歸自然、天人合一的樂趣。
     
      本文圖片均由樊康屹提供
     
      景點介紹
     
      ●雁門關
     
      雁門關有東、西二門,皆以巨磚疊砌,門額分別雕嵌“天險”“地利”二匾。雁門關西門之上筑有楊六郎廟,北門未建樓頂,門額鑲嵌一方石匾,書曰“雁門關”三個大字,左右鑲嵌磚刻對聯一副:“三關沖要無雙地,九寨尊崇第一關。”關城之北筑有營房、東側建置靖邊寺,內有一對石獅、一根石旗桿和一塊石碑,碑文記述趙國名將李牧率兵屢勝匈奴的豐功偉績。東南方向設有練兵校場。
     
      ●應縣木塔
     
      釋迦塔全稱佛宮寺釋迦塔,俗稱應縣木塔,位于朔州市應縣城西北佛宮寺內,建于公元1056年,塔高67.31米,底層直徑30.27米,呈平面八角形。塔的設計大膽繼承了漢、唐以來富有民族特點的重樓形式,廣泛采用斗拱結構,全塔共用斗拱54種,每個斗拱都有一定的組合形式,每層都形成了一個八邊形中空結構層。
     
      ●清涼山
     
      清涼山位于懷仁市何家堡鄉悟道村西2.5公里處。山分為南北兩峰,南峰海拔1467米,北峰海拔1500米。二峰之間山凹盆地上有華嚴寺遺址。寺院坐北朝南,有正殿、樂樓、東西廂房等。寺之西北有蹬道,通向山腳,為進入寺院的道路。
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