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    乘風追浪 逐夢海角天邊

    時間:2019-05-26 08:51:06 來源:人民鐵道網-人民鐵道報 作者:莫育杰 羅 婕

    三娘灣中華白海豚。


    防城港碼頭。


    神奇的彩石灘。


    北海潿洲島。
     
      大浪淘沙,潮起潮落,聽海風、觀晚霞,神秘浩瀚的大海總能勾起人們的向往。
     
      收拾好行囊,帶著滿滿的好奇與期待,奔赴祖國南疆的北部灣。夏日的海邊,海風颯爽,小草染綠大地,飛鳥叫響藍天,海豚劃破海面。舉目遠眺,海天相接的地方,可望而不可即,誰說這不是夢與現實的交界。
     
      防城港、欽州、北海,勢同三角,由鐵路串聯在一起,宛如一道弧線優美的彩虹降落在北部灣畔。防城港與北海相距139公里,每天有兩對城際列車開行,單程運行需要84分鐘。在普速列車的慢時光里,乘風追浪,邊走邊欣賞如詩如畫的美景,逐夢海角天邊。
     
      防城港: 上山下海出國門 京族風情別樣秀
     
      擁有獨特邊海風情的防城港位于廣西南部邊陲,有著“邊陲明珠”的美稱,這里是北部灣唯一一個擁有完整海景的生態海灣城市。2018年4月,防城港被國務院批準設立為邊境旅游試驗區。
     
      初至防城港,就被這里的藍天碧海深深吸引了,連呼吸都變得暢快起來。防城港有著“華南第一天然氧吧”之稱,十萬大山國家森林公園橫亙城市中部。山上,時而云霧繚繞,時而云開見日;山下,流水潺潺,清風拂面,是休閑度假、欣賞原生態自然風光的好去處。
     
      登山望天闊,俯身潛碧海。從山上下來,便到達與越南交界的京族三島——巫頭、萬尾、山心。這里有碧海、金灘、綠島,沙灘細膩柔軟,海水湛藍清澈。因為處在熱帶邊緣,這里也就有了“冬季草不枯,非春也開花,季季魚泛鱗,果實滿枝椏”的寶地之稱。每當游客來到,京族人民就會彈起獨弦琴,唱起哈歌,歡迎遠到而來的客人。
     
      嘗過海鮮,看夠碧海金灘,帶上身份證就能辦理出國一日游。作為中國唯一一個與越南海陸相連的城市,防城港東興市與越南芒街僅有一橋之隔,紅毛丹果、人心果、蛋黃果等越南水果隨處可見。
     
      值得一提的是,東興與芒街在中越兩種不同的文化碰撞交融中,形成了“一城兩國”的獨特風景。因此,人們又將形影相伴的東興與芒街稱作“姐妹城”。
     
      欽州:
     
      三娘灣里海豚躍
     
      坭興陶中話春秋
     
      位于北部灣金三角地帶的欽州,距防城港僅有32分鐘火車車程。現在,這里不僅是西部陸海新通道的關鍵支點,還是一座依山臨海、風景迷人的現代化濱海城市。
     
      來到欽州,最令人期待的就是一睹有著“海上大熊貓”之稱的中華白海豚。中華白海豚的故鄉在欽州市犀牛腳鎮南面的三娘灣,在天氣晴好的時日,金色的沙灘、明媚的陽光、可愛的海豚,演繹著一個個美麗動人的故事。游人每每踏入這片土地,無不沉醉其間。三娘灣的魅力就像一股春風,吹得人們心中仿佛綻放了鮮花。
     
      除了海的奇,欽州不乏山的靈。唐朝詩人王勃曾在《仲春郊外》中寫道:“物色連三月,風光絕四鄰。”用這句詩來形容欽州的奇景再合適不過了。文峰卓筆、一江橫帶、三石吐奇、鴻亭點翠、靈潭沛雨、元岳凌云等景點,光是聽名字就足以令人心馳神往。
     
      “地從海角開名郡,人在天涯望九重。”這是古人形容文峰卓筆的詩句,從中能看到天涯海角的影子。據有關資料記載,中國古來便有的天涯海角其實有兩處,一處是海南的天涯海角,另一處在廣西欽廉一帶,而且廣西天涯海角的得名,比海南早了800年,足見欽州歷史底蘊的渾厚。
     
      文化源遠流長的欽州,還誕生了與江蘇宜興紫砂陶、云南建水陶、四川榮昌陶并稱“中國四大名陶”的欽州坭興陶。這種陶發軔于隋,發展于唐,全盛于清,至今已有1300年歷史。漫長的歷史歲月中,坭興陶有興起,也有衰落,如今欽州興建坭興陶特色小鎮,重振名陶聲望。漫步小鎮,看著一個個精巧的陶器,就像穿越時空,靜看歷史興替輪回。
     
      北海:
     
      銀灘美景閱不盡
     
      猶見巨鯨淺水游
     
      離開欽州,一路向南,僅需45分鐘就來到北海。北海處于山之口、地之角、海之門,納百川成海,含總江而為浦,是官方文獻記載的年代最早的“海上絲綢之路”始發港。古今相承,東西交融,山海相接,賦予北海獨特的魅力。
     
      在合浦漢代文化博物館里,東漢時期的波斯陶壺、地中海的羅馬玻璃碗、漢代的羽紋銅鳳燈、六字銘文出廓玉璧、多面體紫水晶串珠等文物琳瑯滿目,一下子把人的思緒拉回到那個強盛的大漢王朝。眼前,帆影幢幢;耳畔,漢樂聲聲。我們仿佛看到一千多年前東西方的商品在此出海上岸。
     
      北海最為人熟知的,要數“天下第一灘”——銀灘。綿延24公里的海灘,沙細白、水溫凈、浪柔軟、氣清新,是來廣西旅游打卡的不二之選。當沙灘與陽光邂逅,無論是小坐還是行走,是下灘潛水還是享受日光浴,都是一種美好的享受。
     
      四季如春的北海潿洲島是我國地質年齡最年輕的火山島。這里有五彩灘的日出、滴水丹屏的日落、鱷魚山瑰麗壯觀的火山地質遺跡、哥特式的百年天主教堂,還有中國近海岸唯一大型鯨類與海鷗嬉戲的場景,海島風情濃郁,是別樣的詩與遠方。
     
      來到北海,怎能錯過金海灣的紅樹林。這里的樹高低錯落、盤根錯節、密密匝匝,被稱作“海上森林”一點都不為過。有人說,紅樹林就像嬌羞的仙女,漲潮時,只看到婀娜的樹冠,饒有“猶抱琵琶半遮面”的情趣;退潮時,那帶有海泥芬芳的樹干含羞姍姍地露出海面,好一幅“千呼萬喚始出來”的畫面。
     
      紅樹林還是鳥類的天堂。林間樹干,隨處可見雪白的白鷺,它們或覓食,或玩耍,或閉目休憩,怡然自得。倘若被人驚嚇,數百只白鷺振翅高飛,直沖云霄,場面頗為震撼,與王勃筆下的“落霞與孤鶩齊飛,秋水共長天一色”有異曲同工之妙。
     
      攜一縷春風,捧一抹新綠,一路朝南走向浩瀚奔騰的大海,與夏天來一場最美的約會,不負光陰不負卿。
     
      本文圖片均由羅婕提供
     
      景點介紹
     
      ●十萬大山國家森林公園
     
      十萬大山國家森林公園位于廣西防城港市上思縣南部、十萬大山北麓,這里原始森林茂密,瀑布成群,晨霧彌漫,山清水秀,空氣清新,空氣中負氧離子含量高達每立方厘米16.2萬個,是北部灣地區空氣負氧離子含量最高的地方,2011年被中國生態學會授予“中國氧都”稱號,是北部灣的“綠肺”。
     
      ●東興市京島風景名勝區
     
      東興市京島風景名勝區位于東興市江平鎮京族三島,地處北部灣沿畔,其西南面與越南萬柱旅游區隔海相望,是我國少數民族京族主要聚居的地方,是民族風光旅游點。著名的金灘就在區內,其因海灘灘長、沙細、潔凈、金黃而得金灘之名,是一個集濱海風光、民族風情和跨國旅游等特點于一體的風景名勝區。
     
      ●欽州三娘灣風景區
     
      欽州三娘灣風景區位于欽州市南側海岸,距離欽州市區車程約50公里,是一處寧靜優美的海濱小漁村。三娘灣以棲息在附近海域的眾多中華白海豚最為著名,在此看到的概率極大,所以這里便成了一處觀海豚的熱門勝地,如今也是欽州市最為著名的旅游景點。
     
      ●北海潿洲島
     
      潿洲島與北海銀灘隔海相望,為火山噴發堆凝而成,是中國地質年齡最年輕的火山島。潿洲島海蝕、海積及溶巖景觀奇特,其沿海海水碧藍見底,海底活珊瑚、名貴海產瑰麗神奇,種類繁多;南部海蝕火山港灣奇特優美,沙灘迷人,游客可以邊漫步邊拾海螺、撿貝殼。

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