• <nav id="mmymi"><nav id="mmymi"></nav></nav>
    新聞| 黨建| 文化| 視頻| 職工家園| 訊息服務| 報刊矩陣| 專項活動| 家園| 博覽| 建設| 運輸| 旅游| 攝影| 書畫院| 報林雜志| 通訊員| 購票|

    人民鐵道網

    旅游
    資訊
    • 資訊
    • 圖片
    • 視頻
    • 帖子

    馬德里,好都市應如隱秘花園

    時間:2019-05-29 17:01:02 來源:新浪旅游 作者:月亮先生Mr-Moon
      時差讓我早于整個馬德里醒過來。當我坐在Hotel Iberostar Las Letras Gran Via房間的露臺上喝第一杯咖啡的時候,格蘭大道剛剛被東方浮過來的晨曦蒙上一層模糊的粉紅色。整個城市還安靜得像剛剛進入深眠,偶爾開過的幾輛車,馬達聲都像遠在天邊。想想他們昨晚幾點才睡下的吧,盡管帶著微雨的10月夜晚,已經冷得需要裹緊風衣,但窗外熱鬧的喧囂聲依然持續到了凌晨一兩點鐘才漸漸散去。那并非來自聚集在格蘭大道附近的游客們,而純粹是本地人的日常。


     
      生活習慣巧妙地異化成了生活智慧。馬德里長期位列游客最多的城市排行榜前列,卻始終少見來自本地街巷深處的沖沖怒氣。他們只是錯開時間,在日程永遠緊張的游客浩浩蕩蕩地從酒店里涌向藝術三角區、馬約爾廣場、格蘭大道購物區和馬德里皇宮的時候,慢慢地醒過來,晃晃悠悠地伸著懶腰,9-10點鐘出門來一份悠長早餐,在游客再次填滿餐廳之前趕去辦公室。4點多的下午茶,9點多的晚餐,都像是和游客錯開的潮汐。至于10點之后,這里的居民依然完全“擁有”馬德里,他們的夜生活剛剛開始,持續到凌晨3-4點都是稀松平常。
     
      即使像2017年夏天“驕傲大游行”的時候,短短一周內涌入300萬人,馬德里人依然可以按照自己的節奏悠然自得。他們“躲”在只有自己和朋友知道的好館子里,偷偷地樂。理論上說,任何人,只要他懂得馬德里,并且不愿意被別人找到,都可以保守自己的秘密,并且藏起來。
     
      往來馬德里多次,旅行指南和網上攻略已經漸漸都失去了魅力。隨后幾天的行程,大多都是在臨近午夜的Tapas小館,從馬德里人酒席間的閑談中整理出來的。我有理由相信他們分享的消息的真實性。在自己私藏的小館子里,幾杯紅酒下肚,你通常都可以聽到充滿驕傲、活色生香的建議:在我看來四處都一樣的炸丸子,他們還能長篇大論地分出三六九等來,并且對我親身去踩過的大部分“好發現“不以為然。
     
      早上10點,我在皇家大劇院的背面找了半天,才摸進了那個不起眼的小門。雖然在這個世界頂級的歌劇院看一場《阿依達》的計劃在10年前就實現了,卻渾然不知有另一扇小門,通向同一棟建筑里的不同世界。


     
      天知道上百位天才工程師在1990年到1997年之間在這棟龐大的建筑里到底做了多少改動。盡管從外表看來,它依然是伊莎貝爾二世鐘愛的那座融合了多元風格,上演頂級歌劇的歌劇院,但從那些復雜的,方向莫測的走道和樓道一一走過,就像走在一個被滿是鋼筋和電線構筑成的后現代迷宮。無縫接駁的舞臺和無停頓的演出,其實需要多達22層樓空間的復雜騰挪才能確保實現。
     
      我恐怕永遠不能在大劇院做一名合格的演員,或者任何工種。即使有向導領著,我還是會在最長5分鐘的轉來轉去,時不時需要跨過鋼筋電纜,或者側身擠過拆成巨大碎片的道具之后,徹底忘記自己的方向和去路。我只記得,那個足以同時搭建和無縫切換三個大型布景的平臺被8根大約5層樓高的巨柱托起。而這一切機關,隱藏于觀眾席下20米處。技術的革新讓當初為了得到更好的音質而建立在水流上的決定顯得更加英明和富有遠見(大劇院的音質好到即使坐在最高一排,也能清楚地聽到舞臺上的每一個呼吸)。8根巨柱居然完全依靠水閘的壓力來支撐或者更換成噸的舞臺布景。
     
      我見到了仍在趕工的最新版的《阿依達》的布景。將法老像貼滿金箔的步驟,其實就在巨柱臨近的工坊里完成。這是大劇院團隊復演歌劇以來第二受歡迎的歌劇(排名第一的是威爾第的《弄臣》),迄今上演的361場已經更迭過幾個版本的制作,大劇院從未假手他人,甚至從未邀請過其他制作公司參與,而是完全依靠自己的制作團隊企劃、實施和完成。
     
      這其實已經有別于歐洲大部分歌劇院現今的做法。公共財政支持的減少和成本的增加讓眾多歌劇院自動或者被迫向現代演藝市場靠近,成為一個單純的,富有歷史感的標志性場館。2008年之后,馬德里皇家大劇院面臨著同樣的問題,來自政府的撥款大幅縮減,讓大劇院不得不提高出租場地的頻率,但管理公司依然拒絕遣散聲名顯赫的制作和演出團隊。值得慶幸的是,這棟建于19世紀初期的建筑在建造之初似乎就為遠在200年之后的任何變動留有預案。擁有1400多個座位的前廳,其實只相當于幕布后所有區域的三分之一。這意味著即使有兩場大型歌劇同時進行演出和排練,幾千名演出和工作人員可以實現互不干擾。演員甚至可以不必經過制作室而去往排練廳,直到他們需要熟悉一個新舞臺上的所有機關時,他們才會碰頭。
     
      不知道久居馬德里的畫家索羅亞是否也曾深入后臺,并且從那些光線充足的排練室里獲得過靈感。透過大片落地窗的光線和如今穿過索羅亞故居博物館中他曾經的工作室的光線簡直如出一轍。即使冬季偶爾的陰雨連綿,都無法在這樣的空間和光線里影像創作。在索羅亞居住在馬德里的大部分時間里,皇家大劇院曾是馬德里皇家音樂學院的駐地,排練廳的格局和標準自那時確定就未曾更改。即使在1925年,因為修建地鐵而臨時關閉并且迅速開始修復和重建的過程中,這格局也從未受過幾位建筑大師的絲毫調整。先后入駐這里的西班牙國家交響樂團與國家合唱團添設了更多的小型排練室。世界上最挑剔的歌唱家和指揮家都鮮有抱怨。當然,他們也許得用兩天的時間熟悉那些迷宮一樣的樓梯。
     
      我在路上花了幾天來琢磨索羅亞剛剛移居到馬德里的觀感。他在這里獲得了名譽、金錢和地位,成為了繼魯本斯之后最受歡迎的肖像畫家。但他似乎依然有意與這城市最熱鬧的部分保持距離。聲名卓著,屢獲大獎的青年藝術家,也許屢次前往皇家音樂學院,卻極少留下明確的社交記錄。看看他位于Paseo del General Martínez Campos的居所吧。除了那個極其類似大劇院排練室采光的工作室之外,幾乎看不到任何濃重的馬德里痕跡。
     
      他重建了他在家鄉經常漫步的瓦倫西亞式花園,那些甬路,花蔭下的座椅以及迷你型的噴泉與當時馬德里緊湊狹小的城市結構有些格格不入,但這是行之有效地躲避人群,或者在一個都市里“隱藏”起來的有效方式。眾多的文獻和研究表明,盡管他贏得了大量肖像創作的訂單,但這對他來說,更像是一份維持體面生活,并且維護有限社交關系的“工作”。而屬于他本能的,讓人贊許為天才的“創作”,則永遠是一片明媚的光亮之下的瓦倫西亞海岸以及妻女們飄逸的裙擺。
     
      索羅亞夫人在臨終之前留下遺囑,希望將故居和花園改建成紀念自己丈夫的博物館:不必要做任何格局上的改動,一切都如同一家人仍在里面生活一樣,甚至連陳設和收藏都不需要另外設計。索羅亞幾乎把所有自己持有的瓦倫西亞風俗畫都掛在了自己的工作室里,在寒冷冬日里似乎都能聞到潮濕咸濕的水汽。索羅亞為客戶訂制的肖像畫,技法并未有明顯的改變。但他對瓦倫西亞風俗畫里光亮的嘗試卻大膽而明顯。這小小的空間像索羅亞留給自己的,浮在異鄉海上一顆小氣泡。他可以盡情地享受馬德里的一切,卻又可以隨時躲進氣泡里的世界,觸摸自己的底色和體溫。
     
      已經是索羅亞身后的世代了,但他似乎仍然是馬德里人提到的,在馬德里“隱藏”起來,或者保有自己秘密的絕佳佐證。不能說索羅亞就是馬德里人了,盡管他舉家移居馬德里,并且對這里的浮華生活了如指掌,他甚至在創作自己的最后一幅作品時倒在了自己的花園里,他的瓦倫西亞底色依然清晰。但這樣巧妙的平衡和保留,也構成了一座城市對游客來說最迷人的部分。

     
      我可能永遠不能像一個馬德里人那樣,對這座城市游刃有余地了如指掌。但每個異鄉人,哪怕只是短暫停留,也能在一個“隱秘花園”里,找尋到自己的位置,并在自己的過去與現在之間做到稍微游刃有余,就已經是很幸福的事情了。
    人民鐵道網版權及免責聲明:
    1、凡本網注明“來源:人民鐵道網” 的所有作品,版權均屬于人民鐵道網,未經本網授權,任何單位及個人不得轉載、摘編或以其它方式使用上述作品。已經本網授權使用作品的,應在授權范圍 內使用,并注明“來源:人民鐵道網”。違反上述聲明者,本網將追究其相關法律責任。
    2、凡本網注明 “來源:XXX(非人民鐵道網)” 的作品,均轉載自其它媒體,轉載目的在于傳遞更多信息,并不代表本網贊同其觀點和對其真實性負責。
    3、如因作品內容、版權和其它問題需要同本網聯系的,請在30日內進行。
    標簽:
    編輯: 劉海霞

    相關新聞

    文章排行榜
    視頻推薦
    乐游彩票 www.083039.com | www.318548.com | www.652331.com | www.109615.com | www.12455y.com | www.c5236.com | www.357165.com | www.89894s.com | www.071wy.com | www.619989.com | www.77802k.com | www.23040.com | www.83993r.com | www.809215.com | www.66332r.com | www.006ac.com | www.178769.com | www.781566.com | www.583792.com | www.35155e.com | www.nnw6.com | www.77801f.com | www.022a.cc | www.995773.com | www.91233t.com | www.878zf.com | www.397836.com | www.66376s.com | www.865850.com | www.191380.com | www.009ac.com | www.139670.com | www.11gpc.com | www.175902.com | www.062wy.com | www.156020.com | www.bxcp3.com | www.77114h.com | www.60fr.com | www.60108c.com | www.cp8016.cc | www.bxcp3.com | www.550264.com | www.8499n.com | www.163135.com | www.fh7557.com | www.99677l.com | www.cb2788.com | www.71399t.com | www.501342.com | www.07czj.com | www.87668k.com | www.xinyc8.com | www.12455p.com | www.680358.com | www.34788l.com | www.493306.com | www.3890u.com | www.196072.com | www.177888a.com | www.2875x.com | www.66652i.com | www.689613.com | www.664by.com | www.35155b.com | www.602721.com | www.2875x.com | www.50051u.com | www.435050.com | www.tlcp4.com | www.07163t.com | www.137651.com | www.928621.com | www.781566.com | www.68689s.com | www.685948.com | www.1555hc.com | www.26299t.com | www.99djcp.com | www.828521.com | www.055e.cc | www.83033s.com | www.95666w.com | www.674770.com | www.w984.com | www.99jta.com | www.08588s.com | www.60108n.com | www.234892.com | www.775710.com | www.qmfc7.com | www.26299q.com | www.33112m.com | www.80075j.com | www.303465.com | www.538699.com | www.zuan222.com | www.959553.com | www.7fk.com | www.2350y.com | www.cll168.com | www.68682g.com | www.190163.com | www.517844.com | www.826927.com | www.c5819.com | www.21czj.com | www.062wy.com | www.9928ff.com | www.33588w.com | www.27280.cc | www.hcjt6.com | www.ch8456.com | www.gei30.com | www.787zf.com | www.9818b.cc | www.986jc.com | www.979zf.com | www.062wy.com | www.9889hc.com | www.88goc.com | www.9889hc.com | www.109ak.com | www.hw82.com | www.839991.com | www.760320.com | www.652851.com | www.594277.com | www.324277.com | www.106517.com | www.66621d.com | www.34788x.com | www.66653k.com | www.8499g.com | www.2109z.com | www.022t.cc | www.938625.com | www.795335.com | www.542676.com | www.312522.com | www.96386k.com | www.77802o.com | www.21202f.com | www.60123s.com | www.9889hc.com | www.976291.com | www.775790.com | www.393477.com | www.96386c.com | www.33588b.com | www.29277p.com | www.089b.cc | www.912594.com | www.506923.com | www.68682h.com | www.12455y.com | www.ovfd2.com | www.695899.com | www.292269.com | www.12455r.com | www.cll168.com | www.974288.com | www.390706.com | www.50054u.com | www.8499q.com | www.917699.com | www.208780.com | www.60108k.com | www.hx6666.com | www.528112.com | www.36788u.com | www.371h.cc | www.533660.com | www.77114o.com | www.5854s.cc | www.547177.com | www.36788s.com | www.069wy.com | www.556742.com | www.50732r.com | www.288hc.com | www.308550.com | www.50732r.com | www.863630.com | www.78949k.com | www.9928aa.com | www.554313.com | www.81520q.com | www.911070.com | www.77114n.com | www.90egg.com | www.xcw866.com | www.26163j.com | www.663566.com | www.86267f.com | www.810609.com | www.26299l.com | www.931670.com | www.77803e.com | www.yi660.com | www.136503.com | www.910xj.com | www.181599.com | www.930xj.com | www.87668v.com | www.hf0886.com | www.66376h.com | www.cp718.vip | www.50788f.com | www.794918.com | www.77802d.com | www.505420.com | www.9889hc.com | www.142525.com | www.lqc5.com | www.33112g.com | www.339967.com | www.23hf.com | www.15355y.com | www.565639.com | www.985jc.com | www.39500x.com | www.590808.com | www.8499o.com | www.88266v.com | www.hcw266.com | www.76762.cc | www.66376i.com | www.679955.com | www.595hc.com | www.54400s.com | www.619477.com | www.622by.com | www.41518x.com | www.506931.com | www.jx68.com | www.87668.cc | www.97655w.com | www.230320.com | www.815870.com | www.5091r.com | www.60108r.com | www.506932.com | www.926799.com | www.18593.com | www.50732m.com | www.330637.com | www.974306.com | www.1035i.com | www.66653q.com | www.068651.com | www.593500.com | www.qml2.com | www.918li.com | www.35918j.com | www.39500s.com | www.183699.com | www.584311.com | www.978231.com | www.585hc.com | www.50064l.com | www.36166r.com | www.99677y.com | www.401345.com | www.98528f.com | www.rrle4.com | www.2109v.com | www.15355n.com | www.29277m.com | www.89894d.com | www.269913.com | www.550424.com | www.hcw823.com | www.730631.com | www.912162.com | www.941718.com | www.c1350.com | www.5666hc.com | www.528qx.com | www.077wy.com | www.3668n.com | www.6661a.cc | www.1111y.cc | www.hycb8.com | www.en06.com | www.aa0090.com | www.aj3383.com | www.9jjc.com | www.rcw8899.com | www.98528f.com | www.665992.com | www.540577.com | www.500231.com | www.hcw332.com | www.322424.com | www.177542.com | www.030953.com | www.80767w.com | www.53911d.com | www.80075b.com | www.36166d.com | www.7793d.com | www.1368i.cc | www.777768a.com | www.xinyc8.com | www.663738.com | www.382688.com | www.203059.com | www.71233u.com | www.35918hh.com | www.12455b.com | www.600hc.com | www.959591.com | www.653355.com | www.345529.com | www.50054m.com | www.35918g.com | www.267by.com | www.535666e.com | www.599049.com | www.162918.com | www.16878u.com | www.8499r.com | www.c1371.com | www.495358.com | www.71399r.com | www.50054b.com | www.092wy.com | www.788572.com | www.xinyc2.com | www.21202q.com | www.9889hc.com | www.756997.com | www.090040.com | www.50788n.com | www.998349.com | www.355284.com | www.21202l.com | www.064wy.com | www.589196.com | www.66376m.com | www.2788cai.com | www.684077.com | www.77803a.com | www.6364g.com | www.744418.com | www.78949h.com | www.0014r.com | www.585116.com | www.33598d.com | www.hjin6.com | www.xinyc5.com | www.66730.cc | www.578960.com | www.77803c.com | www.910424.com | www.73166j.com | www.8000hc.com | www.liuguan000.com | www.60123p.com | www.888258.com | www.77802u.com | www.66ffo.com | www.340680.com | www.5441p.com | www.508277.com | www.50024x.com | www.701495.com | www.87668b.com | www.841879.com | www.35155a.com | www.941194.com | www.39500l.com | www.843879.com | www.29277h.com | www.811672.com | www.77803k.com | www.627793.com | www.08588t.com | www.376369.com | www.982pk.com | www.068657.com | www.hy6937.com | www.43131y.com | www.703027.com | www.15355q.com | www.wcp666888.com | www.fl62.com | www.83993n.com | www.394811.com | www.30xw.com | www.15355n.com | www.583792.com | www.1555hc.com | www.66653l.com | www.hcw823.com | www.66907.cc | www.77803b.com | www.710650.com | www.cll168.com | www.78949y.com | www.689169.com | www.3416j.com | www.66376e.com | www.610875.com | www.878.me | www.61655y.com | www.175901.com | www.766859.com | www.600hc.com | www.88065f.com | www.234287.com | www.739233.com | www.500pt.com | www.80075d.com | www.99638d.com | www.577285.com | www.23040.com | www.69998.cc | www.91233z.com | www.98528g.com | www.565378.com | www.hcw332.com | www.18593.com | www.35918a.com | www.137165.com | www.444219.com | www.890994.com | www.wct3.com | www.080wy.com | www.26163c.com | www.35918r.com | www.97655s.com | www.23040.com | www.585277.com | www.898341.com | www.hx1112.com | www.679by.com | www.4189a.com | www.36788r.com | www.81520s.com | www.50026s.com | www.77114z.com | www.86267g.com | www.133615.com | www.156518.com | www.219553.com | www.330276.com | www.372477.com | www.0586777.com | www.98528f.com | www.513550.com | www.506923.com | www.375699.com | www.568380.com | www.335037.com | www.312102.com | www.196049.com | www.111505.com | www.97655r.com | www.73736a.com | www.35155k.com | www.81678l.com | www.54400w.com | www.05028.com | www.781566.com | www.qm71.com | www.810527.com | www.560251.com | www.309135.com | www.89894p.com | www.50026l.com | www.66376x.com | www.7793h.com | www.66fft.com | www.862455.com | www.586960.com | www.187393.com | www.36788y.com | www.35918s.com | www.636by.com | www.54968f.com | www.652561.com | www.266991.com | www.66621l.com | www.60108j.com | www.bxcp3.com | www.806726.com | www.412228.com | www.55228e.com | www.12455q.com | www.zc35.com | www.318097.com | www.43818w.com | www.5522i.cc | www.711448.com | www.117809.com | www.54400z.com | www.qilc2.com | www.550164.com | www.71399m.com | www.3005.am | www.98528f.com | www.177741.com | www.50080b.com | www.c5908.com | www.338062.com | www.80075d.com | www.3qxc.com | www.235361.com | www.71399l.com | www.qm71.com | www.101372.com | www.8816p.com | www.712250.com | www.68682d.com | www.656by.com | www.506291.com | www.81678n.com | www.958351.com | www.81520v.com | www.371u.cc | www.355264.com | www.34788z.com | www.775714.com | www.50026s.com | www.c4520.com | www.022197.com | www.1035v.com | www.330291.com | www.7782i.com | www.515233.com | www.50052f.com | www.608587.com | www.83033s.com | www.802190.com | www.15355x.com | www.263988.com | www.21202z.com | www.810620.com | www.71233hh.com | www.783500.com | www.66653t.com | www.611874.com | www.07163h.com | www.338031.com | www.cpw | www.bxcp3.com | www.qbwc7.com | www.50074f.com | www.816142.com | www.61655g.com | www.524277.com | www.1035d.com | www.045445.com | www.443300a.com | www.99788f.com | www.550241.com | www.977hf.com | www.77114c.com | www.776873.com | www.33997.com | www.127918.com | www.959557.com | www.60108c.com | www.338218.com | www.ptk3.com | www.68568z.com | www.338057.com | www.ch8911.com | www.50080d.com | www.252359.com | www.938905.com | www.9149g.com | www.80065h.com | www.602952.com | www.lycp886.com | www.78700g.com | www.197802.com | www.809699.com | www.008ac.com | www.88065f.com | www.209918.com | www.771746.com | www.535hc.com | www.71233d.com | www.022174.com | www.577983.com | www.c9664.com | www.9478y.com | www.43131s.com | www.262548.com | www.670137.com | www.hy5455.com | www.9889hc.com | www.99638j.com | www.009275.com | www.500770.com | www.810575.com | www.kc19.com | www.8816aa.com | www.43818m.com | www.50054n.com | www.057452.com | www.377653.com | www.635477.com | www.899495.com | www.hw7890.com | www.223805.com | www.509265.com | www.762933.com | www.955484.com | www.hcjt3.com | www.cpw | www.1368x.cc | www.2350o.com | www.00665.com | www.71233p.com | www.99788j.com | www.50026e.com | www.52303g.com | www.66332o.com | www.77801n.com | www.86267e.com | www.83033m.com | www.86267m.com | www.96386l.com | www.150957.com | www.189370.com | www.186759.com | www.129989.com | www.043552.com | www.99638c.com | www.77803i.com | www.61233t.com | www.36788v.com | www.12455d.com | www.87668c.com | www.52072s.com | www.66653.com | www.2632l.com | www.588yc.com | www.gai50.com | www.996563.com | www.98528f.com | www.597933.com | www.377653.com | www.117015.com | www.77210a.com | www.00665a.com | www.33588l.com | www.2875j.com | www.bxcp4.com | www.816830.com | www.542676.com | www.6fk.com | www.876295.com | www.202434.com | www.082706.com | www.34788a.com | www.40484.com | www.11cmc.com | www.976561.com | www.596112.com | www.108067.com | www.97655b.com | www.9050.cc | www.907712.com | www.399190.com | www.66376t.com | www.23579f.com | www.kc19.com | www.560905.com | www.86267a.com | www.43818z.com | www.w931.com | www.541811.com | www.66621w.com | www.9356x.com | www.987590.com | www.401276.com | www.36788f.com | www.099wy.com | www.802933.com | www.196903.com | www.52303l.com | www.hy5755.com | www.369061.com | www.26299h.com | www.75gcw.com | www.533551.com | www.43131z.com | www.ya838.com | www.368477.com | www.78700l.com | www.661661a.com | www.177888.com | www.06500w.com | www.763117.com | www.54400n.com | www.8jcw.com | www.178571.com | www.cll168.com | www.602917.com | www.07163z.com | www.590777a.com | www.84499f.com | www.636by.com | www.312102.com | www.31330.cc | www.xinyc8.com | www.50788c.com | www.707250.com | www.08588q.com | www.895010.com | www.49956h.com | www.54968f.com | www.60108d.com | www.cb7288.com | www.61655j.com | www.cp3136.com | www.50080w.com | www.915422.com | www.16878e.com | www.808523.com | www.77114l.com | www.606255.com | www.12455h.com | www.393121.com | www.3416u.com | www.197093.com | www.99jtd.com | www.73166e.com | www.917787.com | www.77801z.com | www.lcw199.com | www.3478w.cc | www.083026.com | www.998632.com | www.81520b.com | www.533508.com | www.055g.cc | www.81520u.com | www.bxcp66.com | www.50080k.com | www.298980.com | www.df94.com | www.96386r.com | www.550154.com | www.636by.com | www.52072e.com | www.589467.com | www.126xc.com | www.43131l.com | www.560161.com | www.66ffl.com | www.25688h.com | www.374311.com | www.cf9905.com | www.50052p.com | www.083019.com | www.755016.com | www.0014y.com | www.43131a.com | www.422727.com | www.965960.com | www.8499j.com | www.50732v.com | www.502135.com | www.979233.com | www.5484g.com | www.36166h.com | www.xinyc3.com | www.876928.com | www.982jc.com | www.68689y.com | www.96386x.com | www.552703.com | www.983699.com | www.659zf.com | www.86267s.com | www.053883.com | www.544095.com | www.901572.com | www.5666hc.com | www.39500n.com | www.39500o.com | www.097318.com | www.450568.com | www.785803.com | www.hy5755.com | www.2109r.com | www.50064g.com | www.33997n.com | www.84499o.com | www.206882.com | www.511039.com | www.715025.com | www.955474.com | www.df94.com | www.910xj.com | www.5854r.cc | www.53536.cc | www.39957g.com | www.79520c.com | www.36788n.com | www.77114x.com | www.99677v.com | www.166127.com | www.307075.com | www.376395.com | www.509980.com | www.550439.com | www.637012.com | www.611949.com | www.595121.com | www.599641.com | www.589467.com | www.558610.com | www.507670.com | www.452809.com | www.373170.com | www.339713.com | www.235925.com | www.153328.com | www.091899.com | www.84499b.com | www.73166l.com | www.50052r.com | www.07163l.com | www.52072z.com | www.11303.cc | www.371j.cc | www.hczx3.com | www.937816.com | www.54968f.com | www.rcw8899.com | www.376817.com | www.128760.com | www.73166j.com | www.83993s.com | www.22630.cc | www.73gcw.com | www.987931.com | www.721662.com | www.397760.com | www.026079.com | www.39500h.com | www.33997x.com | www.535hc.com | www.903029.com | www.558403.com | www.106507.com | www.33112a.com | www.6364p.com | www.ascp0.com | www.hcw266.com | www.230757.com | www.50074e.com | www.64141.com | www.hld22.com | www.607992.com | www.101698.com | www.81520n.com | www.1368w.cc | www.877876.com | www.329209.com | www.50788o.com | www.5091p.com | www.901381.com | www.346077.com | www.34788z.com | www.8618aa.com | www.803372.com | www.178339.com | www.54968f.com | www.hy5505.com | www.389344.com | www.21202s.com | www.095wy.com | www.580820.com | www.50080b.com | www.977hf.com | www.577032.com | www.51515l.com | www.777xm.cc | www.599546.com | www.43818w.com | www.078wy.com | www.406577.com | www.810619.com | www.80065d.com | www.986jc.com | www.586960.com | www.15355h.com | www.hy2721.com | www.192762.com | www.22743.com | www.729908.com | www.50052w.com | www.qilc5.com | www.258015.com | www.9928o.com | www.606187.com | www.83033w.com | www.870035.com | www.50051i.com | www.c6882.com | www.81520l.com | www.07hc.com | www.033708.com | www.122by.com | www.178293.com | www.361gc.com | www.bizhong55.com | www.2934x.com | www.330605.com | www.3126c.com | www.303465.com | www.585hc.com | www.179223.com | www.bxcp3.com | www.djcp002.com | www.ya909.com | www.87668i.com | www.yy63.com | www.50052t.com | www.912486.com | www.77802r.com | www.585808.com | www.6832k.com | www.205883.com | www.662by.com | www.81233b.com | www.336766.com | www.78949p.com | www.547638.com | www.999xm.cc | www.78949m.com | www.901573.com | www.52303c.com | www.374311.com | www.ji224.com | www.34788y.com | www.567106.com | www.022f.cc | www.50788m.com | www.607256.com | www.cpw | www.43131g.com | www.593500.com | www.004hy.cc | www.50064w.com | www.591411.com | www.085wy.com | www.35155r.com | www.444067.com | www.igcp9.com | www.50077c.com | www.131873.com | www.865850.com | www.3668m.com | www.51331g.com | www.499393.com | www.c6348.com | www.36166p.com | www.86267k.com | www.620239.com | www.66ffp.com | www.68568z.com | www.040425.com | www.594877.com | www.hy5505.com | www.74972.com | www.60007q.com | www.431056.com | www.896020.com | www.008hy.cc | www.60123l.com | www.81678d.com | www.98528f.com | www.927191.com | www.626by.com | www.34788k.com | www.53900k.com | www.245568.com | www.669772.com | www.aj3383.com | www.371j.cc | www.16878m.com | www.21202d.com | www.89894x.com | www.369072.com | www.611036.com | www.912063.com | www.qml2.com | www.664by.com | www.9928j.com | www.80767y.com | www.50024l.com | www.83993r.com | www.190163.com | www.99djcp.com | www.599047.com | www.806721.com | www.914906.com | www.aa3890.com | www.lczg3.com | www.083wy.com | www.626by.com | www.cll168.com | www.9155a.cc | www.36788r.com | www.54400w.com | www.66652n.com | www.77114l.com | www.78700j.com | www.80065b.com | www.77802c.com | www.77114p.com | www.66621h.com | www.52303c.com | www.52303t.com | www.49956k.com | www.08588t.com | www.7793v.com | www.3126j.com | www.022tj.cc | www.66qxc.com | www.lczg3.com | www.c6127.com | www.987931.com | www.861805.com | www.744559.com | www.594243.com | www.377506.com | www.226105.com | www.81678a.com | www.36788a.com | www.66376g.com | www.43818.com | www.106ak.com | www.gyfc3.com | www.916730.com | www.605733.com | www.335240.com | www.87668y.com | www.34788l.com | www.15355c.com | www.085wy.com | www.917699.com | www.580896.com | www.178651.com | www.53900f.com | www.50051g.com | www.656by.com | www.878455.com | www.500285.com | www.87668s.com | www.77801b.com | www.9928aa.com | www.955381.com | www.394277.com | www.60108x.com | www.06500w.com | www.flff9.com | www.613595.com | www.106096.com | www.77210c.com | www.595hc.com | www.745899.com | www.196776.com | www.bxcp3.com | www.bxcp3.com | www.648689.com | www.89894o.com | www.89959.cc | www.98528f.com | www.210602.com | www.50788g.com |